Wadi Rum in our Nissan Patrol 4x4

(First published in Issue 8, March 2023) Later on, we discovered more countries in the region, always limited by holiday allowances as we worked full time. We met a lot of fascinating people that we can call friends now. Nonetheless, we always had the feeling that we missed the opportunity to discover more. It was never enough for us.

With no vanlife or overland experience, nor 4x4 driving experience, we decided that buying a Nissan Patrol and converting it into our mobile home was the best way to discover the world. And immediately, we threw ourselves into the deep end. We started our journey in wintertime from the Balkans, then moved to Turkey, Iraqi Kurdistan, Iran, the UAE, and ended up in Saudi Arabia in one of the hottest months, in June. Next on the list was Jordan. That was when we recalled our desire to drive through Wadi Rum in our own 4x4.

We spent almost two months discovering remote corners of the country, not just the most popular ones. Even though we had visited Jordan before, it kept surprising us at every step. Our passion for scuba diving kept us for long weeks at the Red Sea coast, where we discovered almost all dive sites in the country. Among many spectacular areas, it is worth highlighting the Underwater Military Museum, which includes 21 wrecks that were sunk on purpose to make it a fascinating place for divers. From tanks and military cars to helicopters, it is a great spot to enjoy the feeling of weightlessness underwater.

After the diving adventure, we slowly moved to the north. On the way, of course, we stopped by the Dead Sea. It was so comfortable to have our own shower to rinse off the extremely salty water after floating in it. We had to be careful about sinkholes. As the Dead Sea is shrinking by almost one meter each year, it gets more and more difficult to find a good spot for swimming. We were lucky to find a wild beach, but it may not be there in a few months. If someone does not have much time, it is always worth considering a hotel located right by the sea for a few days.

Just next to the Dead Sea, there is another destination, Wadi Mujib Canyon. We had tried to get there many times. First, we went in the wrong season, as it is open only when the water level in the canyon is low enough, mostly in summertime. Then when we returned, there were crowds of people because of the Eid holidays. On our third visit, we finally made it, and it was worth the effort. It is a true natural water park. After going upstream for about an hour, climbing ladders and sometimes swimming, you find yourself at the base of a nice waterfall. On the way back, you can jump into the water from a few meters high rocks or use natural slopes to slide down. We had a lot of fun there.

Also, the north of Jordan has a lot to offer. After hot and humid weeks in the south, we cherished cooling moments in the green hills of Jerash, which reminded us of Tuscany. Olive trees, ancient Roman ruins, and super friendly people are what you can expect there. We stopped on some small curvy roads overlooking the river between Jordan and Palestine, and instead of one night, we spent almost a week there. Friendly farmers and shepherds were worried that we did not have enough food, so they started bringing us fresh bread, milk, and butter. Can you imagine this happening in your homeland?

There is really a lot to see in this part of Jordan. Jerash is a perfectly preserved old Roman city where you can spend a whole day discovering every corner. If you prefer some newer sites, there are stone castles built to protect locals against crusaders, such as Karak Castle. Or you can visit a charming town called As-Salt, which in the past was known for trading salt. But be careful, roads are quite narrow there, and it might be difficult to move around with your own campervan.

Finally, we reached the famous Wadi Rum Desert. The best part of it was that we could finally roam around in our own 4x4 vehicle. A long-time wish became a reality. We spent long days discovering canyons, rock formations, and mountains, talking to friendly local Bedouins, and taking beautiful pictures. The best part was sleeping under the stars. Complete darkness, only stars, your car, your home, and you. Did we mention that you feel like you are on another planet here? Many movies were filmed at various sites of the Wadi Rum reserve, with The Martian and Star Wars among the most famous ones.

Traveling by car in Jordan is easy. Roads are relatively good, and there are no problems with moving around. We would not go down to the Dead Sea or Wadi Rum Desert without a 4x4 car, but apart from that, all Jordanian roads are accessible for more standard vans. What is great there is the possibility to fill your water tanks with purified water. There are special water stations where for a few euros you can buy 100 liters of good quality drinkable water.

People are very friendly, and of course, the standard rule applies, the further from tourist attractions, the better. We encountered only positive reactions from locals. Most of them were quite surprised, as there are not many overlanders in their country. Perhaps this will change. Jordan was an exciting destination on our route! We enjoyed it a lot, and perhaps it would have been even better if we had come in a cooler season, when temperatures and humidity levels are lower, especially in the southern part of the country.

We continued our journey and luckily entered the African continent, where we are planning to explore the unknown again. Conditions will be tougher, but the joy and satisfaction will be even greater.