Chasing the light

(First published in Issue 7, December 2022) It is an early winter morning at minus 14 degrees Celsius (7 degrees Fahrenheit), the sun is rising slowly, barely showing its true face, and the white wilderness surrounds us. I am in my new home, a rooftop tent on my converted car, which I replaced my bicycle with. We are a pack of three, two hairy dogs and one with a little less hair.

Going to Nordkapp in winter is not new to me. In 2016, I cycled from Oslo to Nordkapp, a journey that lasted 36 days through all kinds of conditions. That trip was about pushing my limits, and luckily I did not cross them. This time, however, the mission was completely different.

We could have arrived in the north only to find clouds every day. But after 11 years of traveling the world, I have learned that it is crucial to believe in what you are doing and that the results will eventually follow.

My loyal companions, Ena and Max, are always ready for adventure. Whether we go to Lake Borovik, just a half-hour drive from my former home, or to the mountain wilderness of Durmitor National Park in Montenegro, they are always up for an adventure. This time I prepared them with coats and paw protection. At some points, the temperature would drop to minus 41 degrees Celsius (minus 42 degrees Fahrenheit) while shooting the aurora over frozen lakes, and I wanted to keep them safe.

The aurora borealis is one of the most beautiful natural phenomena, best seen in the northern hemisphere. I got into my Dacia Duster, which I converted into a camper, packed warm clothes and food, and set off on a 15,000-kilometer (9,300-mile) adventure.

In 40 days, we traveled through most of Europe. From Austria and Germany to Denmark and Sweden, and finally to Finland. We stopped for a while in Rovaniemi. In Sweden, we were lucky to have clear skies and saw the aurora borealis for the first time. It was a comical moment when I ran into the snow completely barefoot, without socks, to set my camera up on a tripod for long exposure. On long drives, I like to go barefoot, which a real hardcore crew of campers will understand.

I caught the most beautiful aurora north of Rovaniemi. That evening we drove almost 300 kilometers (186 miles)to have as few clouds and light pollution as possible. Driving at night in winter conditions over that distance was not easy. I also had trouble sleeping at times because I almost completely reversed day and night. But all of it made sense in the end. I got the best possible reward: National Geographic published my photos of the aurora borealis on their channels, including some from Norway. That project led to further collaboration with them, and we are now discussing new opportunities.

Being a freelancer for over 12 years and and living on the road is not at all easy. I sold my house a few months ago and decided to live in nature, with my dogs, going wherever the road takes us.

Life is simpler. I no longer have so many obligations I was never fond of. And most importantly, I now get to fully devote myself to photography and video. Ena and Max are with me through it all. Can a man ask for more?